Chables m



Feb. 13, 1923., 1,445,364.

I c. M. STEIYNMETZ. SHIRT HAVING REVERSIBLE SO-FT CUFFS.

FILED AUG. 14. 1920. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1-- 32?! 4 rug Quorum;

Feb. 13, 1923. I

C. M. STEINMETZ.

SHIRT HAVING REVERSIBLE son CUFFS.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

FILED AUG. 14. 1920.

Patented Feb. 13, 1923* UNITED stares PATENT OFFICE;

CHARLES STEINJEIETE, "01 'W'ASHINCfEfON, .UISTEICJ. 03f COLUMBIA.

SHIRT HAVING.- REVEIMILBLE S0131 GUlfFS.

Application filed au ust 14-, 1920.1 gel-s1 No. 403,453.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, CHARLES M. STEIN- Mn'rz, a citizen ofthe UnitedPi'tates,.resi lin g; at l'Vashington, in the District of Coluinhia haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Shit s Having lfeversihle Flo-ft Cuffs of which the following is a specilication referencebeing: had to the ac c oiupanying drawings.

This invention relates to shirts and shirtwaists having attached softcuffs or French cuffs which are reversible and particularly to thedetailed construction of the folding soft cuff and to the formation ofthe placket or vent of the shirt sleeve to which the cuff is attached.

(hie of the objects of my invention is to provide a folding: soft cufffor shirts and shirtwaists so designed and. made s toreduce unduewearand tear at the edges of i the fold lengthwise of the cuff.

surface of the goods will show through the cuff. This is eliminated bythe construction which I have designed.

Another ohjection in foldahlc soft cuffs is that when the outer endportion of the cuff is folded inwardto present a new and clean surfaceupon the exterior of the cuff and the hand thrust through the shirtsleeve, the inwardly turned portion of the cuff is very liable to heforced outward by the hand and the cuff very hard, therefore, to adjust, and even a i the hand is thrust through. the Sh'llt sleeve, theinwardly turned portion. of the cuff tends to work: down the wrist andthe cuff loses its fresh foldechappearance and becomes rumpled.

Another. object of my invention to avoid this by providing ineans,which. when the cuff is turned inward. eugaoges the margin of the cuffwith the sleeve all around the cuff so that the inwardly turned portionof the cuff will he held fiinily in place and pres vented from rumpling.

And another object of my invention connected with the last is to providemeans for terior of the cuff of any such attaching ineans.

A. further object of my invention is to so form the placket or vent asto secure a perfect fit and. finish to the shirt sleeve where softcutfsorFrench cuffs are used. The reinforcing); hands of the vents of shirtsleeves today have a strip of goods continuous on the inner surface andthe upper ends of these hands are so made that there List and wrinkle inthe hand and sleeve, making it fit imperfectly where soft cuffs areattached to the sleeve.

And a further object of this invention is to provide a strong, durable,and non-rip- 'iinu' reinforcement along the edges of a placket or ventso constructed as to permit the sh and cuff to lie flat without any moreperfectly and give a better finish to the shirt sleeve than is the caseat the pres out time.

Other objects will appear in the course of the following description.

llfy invention is illustrated in the accon1- panying drawings, whereinFigure 1. is a perspective view of a shirt sleeve having my improvedcuff and placket hand attached thereto;

l igure Qis a sectional view through the shirt sleeve and thecuif,.looking at the inside of the shirt sleeve and showing the cufffolded or reversed inside of the shirt sleeve;

Figure 3 is a view of a fragment of the cuff and shirt sleeve, showingthe cuff open or entirely unfolded; t

F i gure a is a like view to Figure 2 looking at the inside of thesleeve, but showing he cuff turned to face outward, that reversed withrelation to Figure 2;

F 'ure 5 is a fragmentary perspective section view. of a portion of ashirt sleeve looking at the inside face the cuff being untirelyunfolded;

Figure (this a perspective view of a por tion) of a shirt sleeve and thecuff showing the cuff upwardly turned upon the outer face of the shirtsleeve or reversely to the manner in which the cuff is turned in Figure2; p p

Figure 7 a tfragn'ientary elevation of a portion of a shirt sleeve andcuff with my improved reinforcing placket hand attached there e baud patly broken away;

the samesize as the section 12,1

between the margins of the sections 11- and 12 is a strip 15 of textilefabric preferably sections being preferably composed of two plies ofmateri joined at the intui'ned hems 13,,the wrist band of the shirtsleeve 10 being attached to the plies of the section 11 by stitcl' ing,The section 11 has approximatel dispose of the same character as that ofwhich the cufi' ismade, which strip is attached to fthe sections 11 and12 by stitching 14 This strip 15 forms in effect a hinge between thesections 12 and 11, permitting the section 12 to be folded over a on thesection 11, either upon the outside 0 the section 11, as shown in Figure4, or the inside thereof, as in Figures 1 and 2. his strip comes at thenormal fold of the cuff, that is, on the line tliata cuff of thischaracter would be ordinarily folded, and therefore, permits the readyas desired. T wear and life of the suit because the fold and the wearand tear upon the cuff come upon 111g the station '12.

folding of t e sections of the can upon each other withoutanybi'eakihgor wearing of this portion of the his strip 15 may be of, a single: 13;of fabric or a double ply,

diatom-inaction lengthens the the stri connecting, the two sections ofthe cuff. c'ourse, the two sections of the cuff are providedwith theusual for 1' button holes 17 whereby the usual link on buttons may bepassed throu h the two sections of the cuff to hold the on inits foldedition. The detailed manner of engaging t e sections 11 and'12 with thestrip 15 is in igure 2 but not in the other figures.

Attached betweenthe we "es of material forming the sctihn 12 a 1 thequal to that oi the due is iii-strip 8 whic is also preferabl formed0&- twe of material stitched around its margin show-n in detail inFigure 3, and this state 18 on its inner .face carriesugilurality ofsnap fastener members, illustrate as elastic stud members and designated19 (s'ee figure 3). These I arestitchedmyeleted, riveted, or otherwiseattached to the inner ply of the two plies of material forming the strip18 and coact with a series of snap fastener members, shown as socketmembers 2Q, stitched or otherwise atacted to as a! the, anneal form "astrip 18 is adapted to be folded over, as illustrated in Figurev 6,uponthe inner face of the man-gin of the Section 12, and the studmembers 19 engaged with the socket members 20. The inside ol? the shirtsleeve adjacent its point of engagement with the section 11 is providedwith a series of socket members 21 of exactly the same character as thesocket members 20 and disposed in approximately the same position.

Now when the section 12 is folded over upon the outside of the sectionll, as shown iii Fi ure 6,; the strip 18 is turned inward and the studs19 engaged with the sockets 20, and in this case the cuff looks much thesame as the ordinary folded cufi". lVhvn the Section 12, however, is tobe folded inward upon the section 11, as shown in Figure 2, the studmembers 19 are disengaged from the sockets 20 and engaged with thesockets 21 and, therefore, the edge of the section 12 of the cuff whichis within the sleeve is held to the sleeve so that when the in the usualmanner, thus presenting a neat a pearance which will remain, inasmuch ast e cu cannot become rumpled or forced down on the arm.

It is to be particularly noted that the section 11 is so attached to thesleeve 10 that there is a lever or ply of material upon the outerface oithe shirt sleeve and that there is a slight margin 22 which is left freeand ,u' hich simulates the ed eof a cuff so that, when the section 12 islded inside of the section fa l 1e factthat the section 12 has beenfolded inside is not observable, as this edge 22 gives the effect of thefree edge of the section 12.

While I have heretofore referred to this cuff as being an attached cufl,it will be understood thatthe principle of the invention in ht beapplied to unattached cuffs, that is on s not sewed to the shirt sleeve.It is also to be understood that I may use any fastenmg devices for thepurpose of connecting the strip 8 to the inner face of the shirt sleeve01'' to 'te inner face of the section 12, though preferably I use thesnap fasteners, as illustrated. I

It will be seen that my cuff functions in exactly the same manner as theordinary foldable cuff, but that it has many advantages thereover, thatit will wear longer than the ordinary cuff. stand more hard usage in thelaundry, and is generally superior thereto.

The shirt sleeve 10 in the drawings is tearing and at the -same timesecure a perterial for the PHL'POSQ, The middle portion of the blankfrom which the band is made is formed to provide the nuddle flaps 24: on

opposite edges of the band and between this middle portion of the bandand the ends of the band 'l'-l1er(. 1s a portion 25 formed on each edgewith a flap 26, the flaps 524i and 26 liieing separated. from. eachother by V-shaped notches 27. This band 23 is creased orfoldedlongitudinally on the line The middle portion Z of the band iscreased longitudinally by the crease m and is also creased diagonally bythe diagonally extending creases y, intersecting the notches 27.

In applying this band to the shirt, the two end portions of the band arefolded in parallel relation, the creases g1 permitting this folding ofthe band, and the band then has the form shown in Figure 11. The flaps24f. are folded inward on the inner surfaces of the triangularmiddleportions 29 formed by folding as. above described, while the flaps arefolded inwardly upon the inner faces of the longitudinally foldedportions 25. '.l.hus the folded. band provides two plies of material on.each side of the medial slot of the vent, between which plies ofmaterial the marginal edges of the shirt on each side of the slit G areinserted. The reinforcement thus formed is then stitched to the shirt bymeans of stitching 28, these lines of stitching passing through thefolds or flaps Q6 and the longitudinally folded portions 25 of the bandand passing around the margins of the triangular portions 29 formed byfolding the middle portion of the band as described, and across the faceof the triangular portions, as clearly shown in Figure 7. Tworegistering button holes 30 are formed in one portion of the band and abutton 31 V is attached to the other portion of the band,

or a button hole may be disposed in place of this button 31 to permit alink to be used to cause the closing of the vent, or these but ton holes30 and the buttons 31 may be left off entirely and snap fasteners usedinstead.

It will be noted that the material of the sleeve on both sides of theslit C is rein forced by two plies of material having turned-in home ormargins, and that the end of the slit is reinforced by practically fourplies of nuiterial, two plies being on each side of the material of; theshirt, thus preventing any danger of the vent tearing. actual. use ofthis reinforcing band has demonstrated that it provides for a veryperfect fit for the shirt sleeve without any tendency to twist orwrinkle or open up, and adds a very attractive finish to the shirtsleeve, inasmuch as both margins of the vent or slit are finished in thesame mannerw I claim y i i 1. In a body garn'ient, a sleeve, a soft cullattached thereto and foldable longitudinally along its medial line, theouter margin of the cuff having attached thereto a longitudiuallyextending strip foldable over upon. the outer face of the cuff, saidstrip and the outer face of the cuff upon their confronting faces beingprovided witl'i. means for hold ing the strip folded upon the cnfl, theshirt sleevebeing provided upon. its inside face with. means forengaging said strip with the shirt sleeve. I

2. In an articleof apparel, a wrist sur rounding body portion having anouterand an inner surface and having a portion adapted to be folded uponthe outside of said body portion and upon the inside thereof, and meanson the inside of the body portion engaoeable with said foldable per- 1ca tion to hold the margin of the foldable po tion engaged with the.inner face of the body portion.

3. In a garment, a wrist surrounding body portion having an outer andinner surface, a portion attached to said body portion and foldable overupon the outer surface there of and upon the inner surface thereof, astrip attached to the free margin of the foldable portion and :ioldableinward there over, the margins of the foldal ile portion of the stripupon their confronting faces heing provided with coaeting fastening devices, the inner surface of the body portion being provided withfastening devices with which said fastening devices on the strip coactwhen the foldable portion is turned inward on the body portion tothereby hold the margin of the foldable portion in close engagement withthe inner face of the body portion when the foldable portion turned.inward.

4. In a garment, a shirt tudinally foldable cuff attached thereto, astrip attached to the free margin of the cuff and foldable over upon theoutside face of: the cuff, the inner face of said strip and the outerface of the cud being provided with coacting fastening devices, theinner face of the shirt sleeve adfacent its Joint of engagement with thecuff being provided with fastening devices coast with the fasteningdevices on the strip when the cuff is folded inward to thereby hold theii. is margin of the cuff in engagement with the shirt sleeve.

55, ln'a garment, a shirt sleeve, a loupjb tudinally foldablo cuffattached thereto, a

strip attached to the free margin of the cull and foldable over upon theoutside face of I the cuff, the inner face of said strip and the outerface of the cuff being provided with coacting snap fastener memberscomprising resilient studs and coacting sockets, the inner face of theshirt sleeve adjacent sleeve, a longiits point of engagement with thecuif being provided with snap fastener members adapt ed to coact withthe snap fastener members on the strip when the cuff is folded inward tothereby hold the free margin of the cuff in engagement with the shirtsleeve.

6. In an article of apparel having a vent slit,a reinforcing bandtherefor comprising a strip of material longitudinally and transverselyfolded to provide two plies of materialforming each margin of the slit,the transverse fold of the material providing four pliesoi? material atthe ends of the slit, two of which plies extend across and intersect theclosed end of the slit.

7. An article of apparel having a vent slit, a reinforcing band.therefor comprising a single strip of material folded transversely atits middle to provide two arallel portions, each of these longitudinal yextending, parallel portions being medially to provide two parallelportions each formed of two plies of material and opposed triangular endportions, the material at the op posite margins of the slit beingembraced between each two plies and sewed thereto and the triangularportions being sewed to the material at the end of the slit.

9. In an article of a parel having a vent slit, a reinforcing bandtherefor comprising a strip of material having at its middle twodiagonal creases, the strip of material being longitudinally creased ona medial line intersecting the intersection of said diagonal creases,said strip being folded on the said medial crease and upon its diagonalcreases 1o provide two parallel portions each formed of two plies ofmaterial and opposed triangular end portions, the material at theopposite margins of the slit being embraced between each two plies andsewed thereto and the triangular portions being sewed to the material atthe end of the slit, each of said longitudinally extending plies beingformed with an inwardly turned hem and each of the triangular pliesbeing formed with an inwardly turnedhem, the stitching connecting thereinforcement to the article of apparel passing through said inwardlyturned hems.

In testimony whereof I hereunto afiix my signature.

CHARLES M. STEINMETZ.

